Since our failed summit attempt Nevado Soliman in November last year, my friends and I talked again, try my climbing. We have set some tentative dates, but did not work for one reason or another. As I live at the foot of the mountain, the friends of Lima was mine asked me to keep track on it and send their images via ferrata. This week I finally had time to hike the mountain to see what the track looks like a and somePhotos.
Monday, 'I made plans for a backpacking trip in three days, so the morning of Tuesday. I invited my friend Max to go with me, but in the last minute had to turn back because of work. I wanted to start hiking Cotahuasi, which is 8,800 meters, it would be a gain of about 8,000 meters to do. But when I realized that Sanchez would be the weekly bus from Lima to Cotahuasi Tuesday morning at about 8:30, I decided that instead of Visca Grande. Large bowel is aJunction where the old foot-track and animals along the road between current and Cotahuasi Chuquibamba and is the starting point for climbing Soliman normal for the bus trip. This will also save me an estimated eight to nine hours of walking and 6,526 meters in altitude. For a cost of five soles ($ 1.60), it seemed useful
The bus finally left at 9:00 Cotahuasi clock, and fortunately it was not full of passengers Lima, I was able to get a seat. 10:45I greeted the bus when I flat on the sand at 15,328 feet (4,672 m), stand. A few minutes later, a bit 'higher up, looking south-east I could see two of the summit of Nevado Coropuna and looking south, north peak Soliman. Soliman for the recommended route is to follow a path west of the river Soro, and then follow the river to its source, which is a glacier at Soliman. I had wandered over the border and the river, is broken on the road last November, when my cardown, and he remembered a couple of hours. I could not see no sense in so far as they go west, where Soliman was south of me. I did a little investigation a few days before my trip to Cotahuasi, and it seemed possible to travel cross-country ski directly Soliman.
The whole plateau is where volcanic sand with stones and rocks scattered, with some very resistant vegetation. It is not flat, there are many hills and ravines, gorges and that may very occasionaldeep. But from my previous education, I have no problems that would prevent the cross-country route. The sand is rather coarse and firm, and is easily reached on foot soft, sandy beach in contrast to normal. I started in a south-westerly light, knowing that there is a low mountain range between me and Soliman, I wanted to go west. The wind was a little 'chilly, but with a fast-paced and above all gentle slope in the blazing sun, made it perfect for hikingConditions.
Around 1:30, I was just above a flat bottom, where I had the pleasure of seeing five vicuna grazing. They were very shy and even though I tried to skirt around in front of them, I could not get near them for a good image. I had a wonderful view of Soliman, had a saddle on the ridge I go there. The vicuna actually took me to run around the right end of the bar and on the east side Soliman. At the top of the ridge, Iwas given a farewell view of the road to Cotahuasi and distant mountains on the other side of the gorge, and Nevado Firura, my next climbing objective. before me was a semicircle of Soliman summit, the glacier is located in the bowl. There was a ridge between us, but finally after 3 hours and 45 minutes I was finally on a track. It was only a faint animal trail but it was easy to see and was led around the hill, so I decided to follow him.
At 3:05, I could seeSoro's crossing of the river in front of me, and the junction with the road (near the normal range) away to the west of me was so happy with my cross-country route. I'm sure has saved me a couple of hours and it was an easy walk. After the low and tight across the river, I began the ascent towards the ridge on the right side of the river to the glacier. Until now I could see going to have me go all the way to the glacier, the road to the photos I wanted to get thatcreates a new plan to slip into my head. I remembered reading that one of the three peaks of Soliman had not reported to reach the summit. I thought it would peak on the right side, which is the lowest of three. Mean peak is the true summit, which is separated from the north by a sharp point, but relatively short ridge. The normal route climbs to the ridge between two peaks.
The peak on the right side, the west summit, seemed largely devoid of snow on the north side, where I was, is,so I decided if it was scalable. I had not planned to climb the mountain so naturally I did not have my ice ax, crampons, or even my thick gloves. I could see two possible paths, the path with no snow in the north, and another from the east, starting above the glacier. E 'was partly hidden by a minor peak, but what I could see he was covered with snow. But it was not as steep as the Northern Route, so I decided that I should at least check in the morning and see whatseemed. But the important thing now was to camp before dark. It was now 5:30 and the sun was behind a ridge, and 17 711 feet, it was cold in a hurry. The Sun has a nice sheen on top of the ridge east, north to the summit, which was, of course, my ideas for the future path full of experience.
Of more immediate concern, however, was a fact that I had in the early afternoon to realize that I forgot to bring my sticks had. E 'Walking was not a big deal without them, but also twice the tent poles, like mine! Of course there was a stick or branch into view it was after I got off the bus at about 15,000 feet. I was thinking of using my tent as a bivy knew, but the inside was covered with frost in the morning, which was therefore not an attractive option. The only thing I had were stones of all sizes and types - including those stacked boulders and large flat. I decided that a stone was the best option, andAs soon as a suitable place at the end of a narrow flat area of sand. I set up the tent was small and unilateral, but it worked.
Many do not want cold hands in the morning I slept until after the sun began to melt the frost in my tent, and then after breakfast was a beginning of a mountain-clock at 8:00. It 'was a beautiful morning, and was warming up quickly, particularly with the climbing begins in earnest before. Another minor problem was that I had brought my sunglasses, I never wearthem while hiking, and I had not foreseen in the snow. Fortunately, there was a ridge on the right side of the glacier, with only a few patches of snow on it. He did make it difficult for the wonderful view from my left to admire even if, as I climbed the glacier. After seeing the photos section to my friends, I checked the top of the snow-covered road east to west. It was really all about snow, and it was not too steep, but with the Penitentes (sharp edges fragile snow) and notSunglasses, was not in question.
I went back to the north of the most direct route, which was a steep scree gully, and sought the best way up. It seemed to be the safest way to get around the left side of the rock slide, which seemed to most of the way to go to the base of the tip. While the vision of the track, I rested a bit 'and eating a snack at 18 610 feet. At 10:34 hours, I began to use the rubble and tried to find the biggest and most solid rock to hold the foot and hand. E 'was not too hard, but I was not sure down the same way. But apart from the center of the slide, you are free of rocks and it looked like it would be a simple slide.
Just before the narrowest point of the slide, I was tempted to leave the rubble and climb a wall of 10 meters of rock. However, I could not see what the top so decided to switch and continue along the slide. When I took it I was glad I had climbed the rocks as evidence ofand that their collapse would have a ski jump, was having a very hard landing. So far, I have the true summit west, behind a peak value lower, if it was hidden underneath. I was disappointed to see that this was more or less snow in the crevices and rocks. Even without snow, I'm sure it would be difficult and climbing, as I was able to go it alone, especially without climbing equipment. After reviewing theView over the ridge to the south, I left my backpack and walked as much as I probably was. My GPS showed 19 267 feet, and I was probably a few hundred meters below the summit.
The views were great, though, I had a good look at the northern tip and the true summit, which is 19 990 meters. It 'was very clear that the attempt to reach the summit from the ridge where it was not an option, at least for me. Even the rocks overlooking the south side seemed much moredifficult than it was at the base of the glacier. That leaves the usual way to a canyon that not a lot of snow, making it difficult to climb.
At 12:30 I was sliding down the slide past the pin, head held high like a clock, which proved to be a very simple and fast down. An hour and 15 minutes later I was ready to pack up my camp and go home. I have a little more reluctantly milky water from the river Soro, when I crossed. There have been somenice flat spots on the way back to Visca Grande, but I knew that there was no water, until a few hours there. At 4:30 I was looking into the bowl, where I saw the day before the vicuna, which was where I had thought about camping. It was too early to stop, so I continued, after a similar cross-country course yesterday.
I saw the vicuna again, but from further away than before. Around 6:00 I found a few clockfrom flat places, the fields have done well, but if not, were not on the rocks that I got my tent, without the front seat. I was close enough to Visca Grande, I am still not decided, there was also a rock shelter used there as the shepherds saw blade. I arrived just before dark, only to discover that it had for some reason, stacked full of big rocks. However, there was a rock along the road that was suitable to use, so I set up my tent, but I have a good sleep,decided on the spot "only" 15 328 meters.
I probably should Cotahuasi a ride in a truck that has passed, but I wanted to go back to the old system and see if was suitable for mountain biking. Find this story in the next report.
